Forged engine build prices

 

This can be a more complex subject to put into "packages" and stages as there are so many ways to do it but the below is from our personal experiences and best advice for solid packages we have proven and know work well. 

The prices below are assuming your current engine is in good health, you could go and turn the key and take the car on a long drive right now without issues. If your engine is knocking, rattling or has problems please go further down the page to that section for a further explanation on how we would proceed.

All prices below should be taken as a guide, we never truly know the health of your engine until it is stripped down, during stripping if we found anything not how we expect it to be you would be contacted immediately with associated costs and time set backs.

Light forged build "rod only" - Up to 450bhp used regularly on the road - 

This is the same package used in our daily driver test car currently running an Avo Stage 5 turbo kit, 1.6bar of boost, methanol injection, all the bells and whistles with over 500bhp on the stock gearbox and drive shafts(we are certainly pushing our luck on those). One of the key elements to a reliable engine build for one of these engines is a strong oiling system, with our modifications we are able to achieve almost double the factory oil pressure over 7000rpm even on a relatively light 5w40 oil. We retain the factory cast pistons meaning there is no rattling or accelerated bore wear so we are confident an engine in this level of build could do over 100,000 miles reliably. This will suit 99% of GT86 or BRZ owners. Don't over build and ruin your car is probably the best single piece of advice we can give to anyone modifying a car. The main juicy parts of the build we use are

Add in our full menu of oiling system modifications, an upgraded oil pickup pipe, fluids, removal and refit labour, strip and build labour plus a few required gaskets the total cost comes in at a very reasonable.

We don't keep many of the required parts in stock so we would need to allow at least 4-8 weeks to gather all the parts and we would need your car for 1-2 weeks to complete all of the work required so allow plenty of time when planning this. We never aim to do the work quickly, we aim to do it correctly and sometimes this takes a little extra time.

"Fully forged" build - 450bhp - 600bhp and beyond used regularly on track - 

This is a very similar package to our 600bhp+ race car. Whilst this can be used on the road as a regular driver we would recommend against it. Many consider a forged engine to be "the silver bullet" that it fixes all problems, is infinitely reliable and will last forever. It could not be further from the truth, a forged engine needs to be treated with greater respect than the above package or a stock engine. It must be properly warmed up and cooled down, serviced and maintained far more regularly, taking on a forged engine is not something to take lightly, properly consider if it meets your needs or not.

The main juicy parts of the build we use are

Add in our full menu of oiling system modifications, an upgraded oil pickup pipe, fluids, removal and refit labour, strip and build labour, engine machining and running in costs the total comes to 

We don't keep many of the required parts in stock so we would need to allow at least 4-8 weeks to gather all the parts and we would need your car for 3-4 weeks to complete all of the work and machining required so allow plenty of time when planning this. We never aim to do the work quickly, we aim to do it correctly and sometimes this takes a little extra time.

If your engine currently has a rattling bottom end or other issues read on.

It is entirely impossible to quote this without stripping the engine, see above for price guides on healthy builds and go from there. Some engines we have stripped have been entirely trashed leaving nothing useful. If it has been stopped at a light rattle so it hasn't yet damaged the heads or front cover we find the best course of action is the replacement short block from Toyota then add the rest of the build in. 

Usually at this stage we would say "assume the worst and anything else is a bonus" so if you have a bottom end rattle assume you will at least need a replacement short block but we absolutely cannot give fixed quotes or solid prices on unknowns until we strip the engine down and inspect it. The average price of past builds to a "rod only" stage from a rattling stock engine is 

All "built" engines are considered "race" engines, therefore carry no warranty or guarantee. 

For booking or further discussion on any of the above please email [email protected]